Edith L. Rosenbaum's Letter
Women's Wear Daily
She Describes Some of the Newest Things in Furs
(Special Correspondence of Women’s Wear)
Paris, July 17, 1911 – With the intensity of the present Paris heat, which is most unusual, one is really almost unable to see anything with any degree of interest, but as I believe in exerting my imagination over my physical discomfort, I have been looking at fur models all day and trying to imagine that it was midwinter, not with any degree of success, however. But I will give you the result of my observations, as we are all interested in furs, notwithstanding that it is rather an unseasonable time to buy them.
The predominating novelty fur, which I see generally used in coats, as well as in muffs, etc., is mole. This is worked in flat stripes, sometimes pressed diamond forms and – what was perfectly new to me – a round dot effect about as big as our silver dollar.
One long coat, which was decidedly draped and slashed on one side, carrying out the skirt idea which we now wear, was of mole, the stripes running the length of the garment, with a border of large dots around the bottom of the coat. A draped scarf effect was thrown over the shoulder and the sleeves had a kimono cape top with a long, tight undersleeve set in under the cape. The entire garment was edged off with a band of two shades of muskrat, which is silvery gray, blending beautifully with the darker shade of the mole. This little animal, muskrat, which was first introduced by Paquin last year, seems to be increasing in favor.
A broadtail coat with an Empire back had the front buttoning away over to one side. It had large buttonholes of black satin, black satin buttons, large revers of the Directoire style made of the muskrat worked in stripes, the light and dark shades of the body forming very beautiful revers.
A white fox stole was mixed with silver fox forming a pinwheel design with the combination of furs in the center back. One side of the stole is white fox, the other silver, the lining white satin. The same idea of the combination of furs is carried out in the lining and is most attractive (see sketch).
The taffeta jacket or sort of semi-pellerine idea launched by Callot has been carried out in furs (see sketch) and is most attractive. Also the white chiffon garment edged with ermine, shown in Women’s Wear, June 23, is now being made into a fur garment and is most charming.
Fringes and tassels play a very important part. One caracul coat having large pockets has a collar forming one long rever in a combination of black and white fox. A large moleskin muff with stole to match was edged in mole color and white silk fringe about six inches long. Combination stoles of white and black fox are as popular as last season. The fringe idea is being carried out in furtails and one muff of ermine fringed with long ermine tails was rather attractive.
A black pony coat lined with claret colored ratine was a decided novelty. Dresden printed chiffon is often used for lining.
Fisher foxes, skunk and sealskin still hold their popularity. Muffs are very large and flat and sometimes melon shaped.
A very attractive motor coat by Francis is of black and white check cloth, trimmed with red cloth, the sleeve being made tight fitting with a sort of puff idea coming from the elbow. Nearly all motor coats as well as fur coats show a decided tendency to cut up in the front with a V-shape carrying out the cut of the skirt that is so popular at the present moment. Olive shaped buttons in metal, bone or other combinations are very popular.
There will of course be other novelties but not until the openings of Drecoll, Bernard, Paquin and Bechoff-David on Aug. 16 as they are really the model makers in furs.
Edith L. Rosenbaum.
(Special Correspondence of Women’s Wear)
Paris, July 17, 1911 – With the intensity of the present Paris heat, which is most unusual, one is really almost unable to see anything with any degree of interest, but as I believe in exerting my imagination over my physical discomfort, I have been looking at fur models all day and trying to imagine that it was midwinter, not with any degree of success, however. But I will give you the result of my observations, as we are all interested in furs, notwithstanding that it is rather an unseasonable time to buy them.
The predominating novelty fur, which I see generally used in coats, as well as in muffs, etc., is mole. This is worked in flat stripes, sometimes pressed diamond forms and – what was perfectly new to me – a round dot effect about as big as our silver dollar.
One long coat, which was decidedly draped and slashed on one side, carrying out the skirt idea which we now wear, was of mole, the stripes running the length of the garment, with a border of large dots around the bottom of the coat. A draped scarf effect was thrown over the shoulder and the sleeves had a kimono cape top with a long, tight undersleeve set in under the cape. The entire garment was edged off with a band of two shades of muskrat, which is silvery gray, blending beautifully with the darker shade of the mole. This little animal, muskrat, which was first introduced by Paquin last year, seems to be increasing in favor.
A broadtail coat with an Empire back had the front buttoning away over to one side. It had large buttonholes of black satin, black satin buttons, large revers of the Directoire style made of the muskrat worked in stripes, the light and dark shades of the body forming very beautiful revers.
A white fox stole was mixed with silver fox forming a pinwheel design with the combination of furs in the center back. One side of the stole is white fox, the other silver, the lining white satin. The same idea of the combination of furs is carried out in the lining and is most attractive (see sketch).
The taffeta jacket or sort of semi-pellerine idea launched by Callot has been carried out in furs (see sketch) and is most attractive. Also the white chiffon garment edged with ermine, shown in Women’s Wear, June 23, is now being made into a fur garment and is most charming.
Fringes and tassels play a very important part. One caracul coat having large pockets has a collar forming one long rever in a combination of black and white fox. A large moleskin muff with stole to match was edged in mole color and white silk fringe about six inches long. Combination stoles of white and black fox are as popular as last season. The fringe idea is being carried out in furtails and one muff of ermine fringed with long ermine tails was rather attractive.
A black pony coat lined with claret colored ratine was a decided novelty. Dresden printed chiffon is often used for lining.
Fisher foxes, skunk and sealskin still hold their popularity. Muffs are very large and flat and sometimes melon shaped.
A very attractive motor coat by Francis is of black and white check cloth, trimmed with red cloth, the sleeve being made tight fitting with a sort of puff idea coming from the elbow. Nearly all motor coats as well as fur coats show a decided tendency to cut up in the front with a V-shape carrying out the cut of the skirt that is so popular at the present moment. Olive shaped buttons in metal, bone or other combinations are very popular.
There will of course be other novelties but not until the openings of Drecoll, Bernard, Paquin and Bechoff-David on Aug. 16 as they are really the model makers in furs.
Edith L. Rosenbaum.
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Edith Louise Rosenbaum
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