Thanks everybody,
It's really appreciated.
Doug asked if Lucile came up with the romantic names by which she called her "frocks." The idea she actually revived from the time of Louis XVI when Rose Bertin, "Marchande Des Modes" to Marie-Antoinette, called all her hats and dresses for the queen and her court by quaint and sometimes ridiculous names. For her gowns, Lucile had a penchant for names that evoked the boudoir of course, which was her trademark "angle." And no she did not have a marketing director. She was her own best publicist. She did have a personal manager and a press secretary.
Stuart, I can send you a copy by email if you can't open the PDF. I'll be in touch soon.
Anita, you asked if naming dresses was common practice among couturiers of the day. No, not until after Lucile made it general. It was initially only adopted by a few. Apart from Lucile, I can think of only Poiret and maybe Cheruit. It became common practice by the 1920s.
Anita's other questions:
"...Since Lucile was the first to do what we think of as "modern" runway shows with models, etc. - what did the designers to before that? ..."
Originally mannequins - the wax and saw dust variety - were used and then live models, but these were usually not especially hired for the post, being perhaps a salesgirl or fitter who only modeled them occasionally and informally for clients. This was a backroom sort of a thing; there was no showroom per se, no stage or footlights, or orchestra and tea. Lucile brought all that in. She made the fashion show a social event akin to a theatre matinee, for instance, by inviting celebs and the media.
"...How did Lucile's rise to fame relate to the expansion of the media of the day (newspapers, magazines, catalogs, etc.)? ..."
It had everything to do with it. The early 20th century was the heyday of the tabloid press and women's interest publications. She profited hugely from press coverage. She was Hearst's fashion correspondent which gave her tremendous exposure through his syndicate of newspapers and magazines. She also was covered widely by the burgeoning newsreel media, at one point having her own weekly program. The press made Lucile.
Thanks again for all your kind comments.
My best to you all!
Randy