The Renaissance of Lucile

Ellen:

I’ve contacted you through the message board email system in hopes that you’re still a member and would like to correspond about your grandmother. I just came across this thread — a year late!

Randy
 
Here, at last, are some concrete details about the long-anticipated book on the life and career of Lucy, Lady Duff Gordon, due to be published by the V&A later this year.

http://www.vandashop.com/product.php?xProd=2791&s=1

Evidently, this is still a work in progress - I notice that the jacket design has already changed once since I first came across the link a fortnight ago. But, one way or another, it looks like we're in for a treat!

Best wishes for a happy and prosperous 2009 to all

Martin
 
This is the product description from Amazon.com which tells you why this is a must-have book if you are interested in Lady Duff-Gordon, and particularly her fashion designs (please note especially the second paragraph!):

"In the early 20th century, Lucile, Lady Duff Gordon (1863-1935), was an international fashion sensation. She created some of the most lavish, provocative, and controversial fashions of the Edwardian era, lingerie, tea-gowns and evening-wear that attracted famous beauties like Lillie Langtry and Mary Pickford. A flamboyant and eccentric character who survived the sinking of the Titanic, wrote a column for Hearst newspapers, and designed costumes for the Ziegfeld Follies, Lucile also trained the first professional fashion models, staged the first runway shows, and introduced revolutionary elements to women's dress such as lower necklines, slit skirts, and less-restrictive corsets.

"This fascinating and long-overdue study of Lucile's work includes a remarkable facsimile of her Fall 1905 fashion album, printed on special paper, and featuring over 60 watercolor illustrations and reproductions of luxurious fabric samples and trimmings. The book also draws on Lucile's own autobiography, Discretions and Indiscretions, a captivating window into the rarefied world of high Edwardian society and the extraordinary mind of one its most notable characters."
 
Well, if they do, please be kind and send us some very nice (large) photographs of each one, if they allow you to. I know when I toured the exhibit of Princess Diana's gowns and couture, we were not allowed to use flash photography because they said the flash would damage the fabric. I guess they forgot how many papparazzis flashed their cameras at her while she was wearing them!
 
>>we were not allowed to use flash photography because they said the flash would damage the fabric.<<

Over time, it will. Leave something exposed to even normal daylight over a long enough period of time and you can see the damage being done.
 
The long-anticipated Lucile Ltd, co-written by Valerie Mendes and Amy de la Haye, appeared on shelves (here in London, at any rate) at the end of June. It is a truly fascinating and beautiful book which does much to place Lady Duff Gordon's achievements in the field of fashion in their proper historical context - and about time, too!

For English readers, a full review can be found on page 99 of this week's issue of Country Life magazine.
 
I've been advised by Amazon that my copy has been shipped. I've been waiting months for this book, and I hope I will not be disappointed. I'm hoping it contains copious amounts of fashion illustrations.
 
Hi, Martin and Kyrila,

The book is indeed gorgeous and the authors are to be congratulated for a commendable exploration of Lucile's career. Visually it is certainly a feast. It's technically not a biography but is infinitely better —— a complete study of the Lucile oeuvre and illustrated, as Martin said, almost completely with images from the V&A's Lucile Archive. This originally was Lucy Duff Gordon's own collection, preserved after her death by her late grandson, Anthony, Earl of Halsbury and donated to the V&A back in the 1960s (but until now uncatalogued).

It really is touching to see this work come to fruition as it was something Lord Halsbury was very keen to see completed; alas that was not to be, but his daughters are very pleased, and both participated in promoting the book, one attending the lecture pre-launch, the other the launch party.

For purely Titanic fans, there is little about the sinking. This book is a treatment of Lucile as a designer and "pop" figure of her time —— and what a treatment! Thorough and unabashed. I recommend it to all lovers of Edwardian era history, not just to fashion buffs as the scope is broad enough to fascinate those interested in the period's performing arts and general culture.

I would also recommend another new release that examines Lucile's influence on fashion via the Broadway stage (i.e., the Ziegfeld Follies, etc). This is Marlis Schweitzer's "When Broadway was the Runway: Theatre, Fashion and American Culture." It was published in May and features several rare archival photos of Lucile designs and one of herself, also not generally seen. And the cover art is a lovely portrait of Follies star Ina Claire in a Lucile gown!

Randy
 
Hello all...

I have enjoyed following this thread.

Randy, your very well written review of a book whose subject you are uniquely qualified to comment on makes this reader want to get the book. Thank you for your many contributions to our knowledge of Lucy, Lady Cosmo Duff Gordon, among many others.

Thanks also to Martin who contributes greatly on a variety of subjects here, mainly the personalities involved in this story. I look forward to your posts, Martin.

Warm regards all 'round.
Doug Willingham
 
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