Lucy Duff Gordon (Women Film Pioneers Project)

Biography:

• Lucy Duff-Gordon (1863-1935), also known as Lady Duff-Gordon or Lucile, was a prominent couturière and costume designer. 
• She began her career in dressmaking in London in 1890 and opened her first salon, Maison Lucile, in 1893. She later expanded to New York and Paris.

Career Highlights:

• Lucile designed costumes for wealthy women, actresses, and film stars in London, Paris, and New York.
• Her designs were featured in several films, including “The American Princess” (1913), “The Whirl of Life” (1915), and “The Amateur Wife” (1920).
• She was known for her elaborate fashion shows and theatrical presentations, which included stages, ramps, curtains, and music.

Influence and Style:

• Lucile’s designs were characterized by sheer fabrics, pale colours, soft drapery, dramatic asymmetrical effects, and handwrought silk flowers. 
• She designed costumes for notable actresses such as Sarah Bernhardt, Lily Langtry, Ellen Terry, and Lily Elsie.
• Lucile’s work helped establish the prototype of the American showgirl and influenced the portrayal of femininity in early cinema.

Film Contributions:

• Lucile contributed costumes to over eighty films, working with stars like Irene Castle, Billie Burke, Mary Pickford, and Gloria Swanson. 
• Her designs were integral to the narrative and technical requirements of films, enhancing character traits and adapting to lighting conditions.

Publications and Endorsements:

• Lucile wrote about fashion and manners for publications like Good Housekeeping, Harper’s Bazaar, and the Hearst newspapers.
• She provided commercial endorsements for a wide range of products, including petticoats, corsets, textiles, and even automobile interiors.

Challenges and Legacy:

• Despite her success, Lucile’s business empire began to falter after World War I due to mismanagement.
• She passed away in 1935 from breast cancer, but her influence on fashion and film costume design remains significant.

Historical Context:

• The article highlights the need for further research into the history of costume design for silent films, focusing on the contributions of other women designers like Madame Frances, Clare West, and Sallie Milgrim.